uk: edinburgh

My favorite city has become Edinburgh.

I felt at home there, walking through the streets without a map, naturally finding my way. I didn't have an itinerary for two full days, and I let myself meander through the beautifully old buildings into wonderful places, including the city's ancient University and The Elephant House - where JK Rowling wrote much of Harry Potter! I didn't have any intentions of ending up anywhere particular, and I loved this freedom of spontaneity. I felt the energy of the city, allowing this to prod me.

My camera began to have technical problems just before I reached Edinburgh so that I didn't take a single picture. Nonetheless, this allowed me to experience Edinburgh more than merely see the city, and when I encountered something beautiful I considered it rather than lifted a camera to my face.

In fact, I loved this enough so that - as strange as it may seem - I didn't bother searching for a camera shop. Even though I generally enjoy photography, not having this option was liberating in many ways.

But here are some snippets from my journal.

12 May 2010 - I’m sitting in Edinburgh’s La Café Royale anticipating a “Traditional Scottish Scone” and a “White Coffee.” I don’t know what exactly these are (which is why I ordered them).

As I crossed the bridge, I scanned the line of old, old buildings. I feel at ease in this city; the place seems genuine, and sincerity puts one at ease. There’s an organic feel to the atmosphere of Edinburgh.

It turns out that a Traditional Scottish Scone is a soft strawberry jelly-filled scone, and white coffee is (as I’d suspected) simply coffee with cream. Perfect.

14 May 2010 - Sitting in The Elephant, “The Birthplace of Harry Potter,” sipping a drink. There’s no sign of the franchise within the café, a gimmick they could have easily exploited and yet I only saw a small subheading on a sign outside. I imagine that were a place in the U.S. attached to such a phenomenon the commercialism would have erupted throughout the entire street. America's cultural roots are shallow, and its society follows currents with little resistance

- - -

After The Elephant I continued walking down the street for the university. The shops became less refined and more hip, the style less polished – telling signs of collegiate culture. Nonetheless, as I turned a corner there were less people and the buildings hid the sun, deflating my confidence. I saw a tall man about my age carrying a backpack, so I got some directions from him which I followed until I approached a square, the “hideous modern building- you can’t miss it” on the left and the Student Union, a cathedral-like building, towards the right. A large man of about thirty, dressed all in black, interacted with each of the students at the door. A student union bouncer?

Resolutely I walked to the foot of the stairs and looked up to the man.

“Excuse me. Would I have to be a student to go in there?”

He smiled slyly down his nose, “Technically.”

“Oh. Technically?”

“Mmhmm.” He paused. “Do you want a look around?”

I perked, “Yes! Please.”

He stepped aside and nodded toward the door.

Honestly, before I stepped inside I’d expected a reserved atmosphere, students of this prestigious, ancient university sitting intently over books at their tables. Founded in 1583, Edinburgh University is ranked as one of the world’s top twenty universities, boasting a long list of prestigious graduates from David Hume and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle to Edward Abbey and Gordon Brown. To my surprise, however, loud music, voices and laughter erupted when I opened the door. Merriment is the best word for what I heard.

The Library Bar – the loudest – was full, several pint glasses, mostly empty, covering each of the tables that was surrounded by students. Other students ran (literally) in and out of the halls, some making eye contact and smiling. I felt comradery in their expressions, however deceptive this was on my part.

After a round through the other rooms, also raucous and littered with empty pint glasses, I made my way back to exit. The man in black was closely examining a student’s ID when I walked out.

When he saw me he smiled, acknowledging our secret, and once again stood aside.